Nail products were the big hit of beauty
in recent years, with stunning of more than 20% in both 2011 and 2012. But the
surge has suddenly come to a halt, hurting results for the whole beauty
business. “The overall nail category can’t sustain the accelerated growth it
enjoyed in the recent past,” said Coty CEO Michele Scannavini on an October
earnings call. She cited a 4% decline in the category in the third quarter
compared with a 21% increase in the same quarter last year. Coty, the biggest
nail-cosmetics player, wasn’t alone. L’Oréal and Revlon got chipped in the
crash, which appears to have intensified in October and November, when
nail-polish sales fell 10% and 13% for the four weeks ended Oct. 26 and Nov.
23, respectively, according to Nielsen data from Deutsche Bank. Category sales
were $814 million for the 52 weeks ended.
Consumer Edge Research analyst Javier
Escalante offers a simple explanation. “It was a fad,” he said. He noted that
the biggest drop has been in “special effects” products such as crackletop coats
rather than basic nail polish. Google Trends show search volume worldwide and
in the U.S. for “nail polish” peaked in July 2012. This year’s July seasonal
bump ran 16% below last year’s levels in the U.S. Last year’s sales gains
pushed nail polish past lip products for the first time in annual sales,
according to IRI data. But that could be a short-lived victory if Google search
results are any indicator. In November, searches on “lipstick” surpassed those
for “nail polish” in the U.S. for the first time since May 2009.
Overall, Consumer Edge reports that the
U.S. beauty market has slowed from 2% growth in the first quarter to 0.9% each
of the past two quarters and down 0.5% in October. Nail products and beauty
appliances, such as curling irons, are primarily responsible for the slowdown,
Mr. Escalante said. The question is: Why? Third-quarter U.S. gross domestic
product and November unemployment data came in better than expected, as did
comparable- store sales results from several leading retailers in October.
L’Oréal Chairman-CEO Jean-Paul Agon in reporting sales results last month
blamed the U.S. beauty-sales slowdown on people shifting spending to cars. But
Consumer Edge Research data show L’Oréal unduly hit by retailer inventory cuts
in the wake of disappointing beauty results, as its shipments significantly
lagged behind its U.S. mass retail sales the past two quarters. Sephora and
Ulta, the two hottest U.S. beauty retailers, are still scorching. Both reported
strong double-digit U.S. growth in sales estimated at more than $2 billion
each. Ulta, whose sales are harder to track by analysts, saw sales rise 22% to
$618 million for the quarter ended in November. Industry executives say both
retailers favor newer and niche brands, so their share gains may be weighing on
established players.
No comments:
Post a Comment